7 skincare ‘nasties’ you should be avoiding: these ingredients may have negative health effects, so why are they still in our beauty and personal care products?

Over the past decade, consumers have become increasingly discerning in their beauty product choices, focusing on products with ‘clean’ formulations that utilize skin-safe ingredients.
Ingredients like parabens, sulphates, alcohols, and phthalates are frequently maligned, but they are often found in creams, toners, lotions, and shampoos.

All skin-care products have made a significant shift towards using skin-friendly ingredients. In response to this transformation, phrases such as ‘nasties’ are commonly used to bring attention to ingredients that are more detrimental than beneficial. In contrast, the term ‘clean’ is now used for products boasting good-for-skin ingredients and offering numerous benefits.

However, they actually degrade the quality and safety of skincare products. Moreover, it’s often challenging for consumers to detect these ingredients, as they conceal themselves on labels under complex chemical names.

Here are some of the most common concealed skincare threats, and how to recognize them so that you can make well-informed choices and select products that are gentle on your skin.

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1. Parabens

Individuals with fragile skin may require caution and gentle care to prevent irritation and discomfort.

However, regulatory authorities like the FDA and SCCS consider them safe at the low concentrations typically found in cosmetics. Nevertheless, the industry has responded to consumers’ concerns with a wide variety of paraben-free products.

2. Phthalates

Used extensively as solvents and fixatives, phthalates contribute to improved consistency and longer-lasting fragrances; however, health concerns exist due to their potential as endocrine disrupters, which may negatively affect hormone activity and reproductive health.

In light of the potential risks these chemicals pose to consumers’ health, regulatory agencies worldwide have adopted different stances. The European Union has enacted bans or restrictions on specific phthalates, whereas the US-based FDA remains in the process of assessing their safety. Although there is insufficient conclusive evidence of their adverse effects at low levels, the potential health hazards associated with their endocrine-disrupting properties have prompted a shift in industry towards phthalate-free products over the past decade.

3. Synthetic fragrances

Artificial fragrances are created from various chemical compounds, including petroleum byproducts. These fragrances, designed to mimic natural scents or invent new ones, are prized for their reliability, potency, longevity and economic efficiency. However, whilst they enhance a product’s sensory appeal, there are concerns over the lack of clarity in their composition, as the term “fragrance” often conceals a variety of unlisted chemicals.

These compounds have also been suggested to cause respiratory and systemic health issues, including asthma attacks and neural disturbances like migraines and depression. Some synthetic fragrances are also considered potential hormone disrupters and carcinogens, despite typically being used in small amounts.

4. Sulphates

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are two commonly used surfactants found in personal care items like shampoos and cleansers. They are known for their ability to produce suds and effectively remove oils and impurities.

Although sulphates are effective and affordable, they have a reputation for causing skin irritation due to their ability to strip away natural oils, potentially leading to dryness, irritation, and allergic reactions, particularly for those with sensitive skin or eczema issues. While considered safe by regulatory bodies such as the FDA in typical cosmetic formulations, concerns about their harsh effects lead many consumers to favour sulphate-free options.

5. Polyethylene glycol

Common in beauty products as emollients and emulsifiers, polyethylene glycol (PEGs) improve the texture of creams, lotions, and shampoos. However, they’ve raised safety concerns because of possible contamination with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, both hazardous substances; ethylene oxide is a known carcinogen, and 1,4-dioxane is a potential one. These are hazards that originate from the manufacturing process.

PEGs also increase skin permeability, which may allow potentially harmful ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin. Although regulatory bodies monitor PEGs’ use in cosmetics in order to maintain safe contamination levels, concerns about their contamination and the impact on skin absorption persist.

6. Mineral oils

Effective in providing intense hydration and known for their purifying properties, mineral oils are frequently incorporated into lotions, creams and ointments. However, their use has been the subject of debate due to concerns over their purity and the possibility of skin occlusion.

Unrefined mineral oils can be contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), substances that may be carcinogenic and cause clogged pores, resulting in acne and irritation, primarily for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. Although the FDA deems refined mineral oils as safe for use in cosmetics, the uncertainty surrounding their safety and research indicating adverse effects have prompted some manufacturers to exclude them from their products formulations.

7. Alcohol

These ingredients are used due to their ability to dry quickly, act as an astringent, and have antimicrobial properties. They are effective at removing oil and reducing pores, albeit their safety is subject to controversy.

This substance, alcohol, can remove the skin’s natural oils, which may lead to dryness, irritation, and disruptions in the skin’s barrier function, especially in dry or sensitive skin, and may worsen acne and other skin problems. However, not all forms of alcohol are detrimental – certain types like cetyl alcohol can act as emollients and are even beneficial for the skin.