6 rising Parisian independent jewellery brands to watch: how Mira Stella, Lucas Bauer, Viltier, Statement, Gemmyo and Maison Avani are all making a name for themselves

Paris’ Place Vendôme is home to several historic houses, however, across the city, independent jewelry stores with innovative ideas are emerging.

Paris’ Place Vendôme may be the epicenter of high jewelry, but this exclusive realm is merely a glimmer of the city’s treasure trove of gem-filled expertise.

Beneath the surface, a new wave of independent labels is emerging, poised to showcase their vibrant designs, and inspirations that span the natural world to art movements such as Art Deco or Brutalism.

Here are six names shaping the pace of Paris’ independent jewelry scene

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1. Mira Stella

The soil around Sophie Bouilhet-Dumas’ family home in Normandy is indeed highly fertile. Besides cultivating lush countryside, it successfully nourished Mira Stella, a prestigious jewelry brand inspired by the founder’s mother and grandmother.

She was able to see enduring beauty in the fleeting aspects of nature. Given her family’s history as founders of the silversmith Christofle, it was fitting for her to recreate delicate water lily petals, sea kale seeds and flax pods in high-quality eighteen-karat gold.

Woodsy notes such as oak bark, the delicate petals of chicory, and heart-shaped quaking grass – a plant related to wheat and rice – have been added to Mira Stella’s fragrance collection. Each fragrance on the website is accompanied by a brief description of its botanical composition. For a more immersive experience, visitors to the area are encouraged to stop by Mira Stella’s boutique, a charming pink-hued store nestled in Paris’ historic Saint-Germain-des-Pres district.

2. Lucas Bauer

Nature inspired Lucas Bauer’s work. It’s no coincidence that a parrotfish spotted by him while scuba diving significantly altered the course of his career after nine years spent designing jewelry and accessories for Louis Vuitton’s women’s fashion studio.

This graduate of the renowned Parisian haute couture school learned jewelry design on the job, utilizing the principle that the precision and planning of patternmaking could be applied to his new medium.

Inspiration for Bauer’s eponymous label now stems from even deeper sources: the subterranean realm of mycelium, the vast fungal network that infuses our soil, and the underwater world of algae. These references feed into his concept that everything is interconnected, including ourselves, which is why his jewelry harmoniously encircles the body like an organic whole.

The designer made his Paris Fashion Week debut with a collection that incorporated fine jewellery created from recycled gold and stones sourced from existing inventory.

3. Viltier

Iris de La Villardière and Thomas Montier Leboucher, who were childhood friends, lost contact but reconnected on Instagram. During their conversations, they discovered that they possessed complementary skills and expertise in the jewellery industry, ultimately leading to the creation of Viltier, a name derived from the first syllables of their respective last names.

Their initial collection, which featured two U shapes coming together with diamonds to form a geometric oval shape, achieved great success thanks to a retro-influenced design with fluted edges, perfectly recreated with inset hard stone inlays.

The pleasing aspect of Viltier designs can be seen in their versatile use of curves and sparkle, as exemplified by the Clique RiviEre necklace with its elegant line of diamonds, and the various interpretations of New Edge which dare to incorporate diamonds into a seemingly straightforward shape.

When in Paris, be sure to visit their Rue de Verneuil showroom, a tastefully decorated lounge boasting artistic pieces and impressive furniture in the vibrant Carre des Antiquaires section of the Left Bank.

4. Statement

A true entrepreneur at heart, Amelie Huynh hasn’t held back in pursuing her dreams, giving up two promising careers – one in high-profile fashion at Chaumet’s flagship store on Place VendOme and another in advertising – to forge a new path with her own jewelry brand, Statement.

She features silver studded with diamonds as her hallmark, a combination frequently employed by French jewelers of the 19th century.

With a keen sense of style marked by Art Deco geometries, a predilection for Brutalist architecture and a personal penchant for bold, voluminous pieces, Huynh’s design aesthetic seeks to convey a sense of individuality – utilizing jewels as a means to signify milestones, moments and memories.

Recently, she has expanded her palette to include 18k gold and introduced pearl-adorned styles, providing her striking designs with a softer aesthetic.

5. Gemmyo

Regular visitors to Paris may remember billboards scattered throughout the city featuring a cute, pink kitten. The images are entirely created digitally, notes Gemmyo founder Pauline Laigneau, but that distinctive logo has successfully put her brand on everyone’s radar.

Since its launch in 2011, Gemmyo’s exquisite designs and competitively priced jewelry have gained great success. Key highlights include the stackable Art Deco line, the vibrant Gemmyorama with drop-shaped stones, and the recently introduced Entaille, featuring minimalist gold carving, offering a more versatile aesthetic.

Recently, the brand introduced an exclusive collection, featuring vibrant Umba sapphires, a rare gemstone discovered in Tanzania, naturally polished by the waters of the river that shares its name. This limited-edition series boasts a warm color spectrum that ranges from soft, blushing pink to vibrant sunset orange. The collection made a stunning debut, becoming an instant bestseller; designs were only available at Gemmyo’s Paris stores.

6. Maison Avani

Any jewellery enthusiast becomes a kid in a candy store when faced with trays of delicately pink/orange Padparadscha sapphires, but even Milan and Thilan Ponweera, whose family imports such stones from Sri Lanka to top jewelers, couldn’t resist the allure of the vibrant pink of Mahenge spinels.

Fostered from the Sanskrit term for “earth”, the brothers’ Maison Avani shows reverence for such vivid gemstones in high-end designs presented in a compact store on Place du Marche Saint-Honore in Paris.

The painterly designs of creative director Milan are a great starting point and serving as inspiration. Additionally, the Ponweera brothers offer personalized designs, such as their recent peony-inspired collection, which was produced in collaboration with Stephanie Primet and Caroline Cnocquaert, the siblings responsible for Paris’ oldest florist, Lachaume.