American designer Suzanne Caygill expanded upon the 19th century principles of seasonal color theory in the 1980s and Vivian Seo, of Find Your Colour Hong Kong, continues that work to date.
Colour analysis is the process of identifying your personal colour palette – whether you have a spring, summer, autumn or winter complexion – to customize your style. This concept has gained widespread popularity in South Korea since 2022 and remains well-liked on social media.
When considering this approach to styling, clothing and makeup colors are likely the first things that come to mind, but jewelry also has a significant impact. From the kinds of metal and materials employed, to the stones and gems themselves, the pieces you wear can shape your overall appearance.
Vivian Seo, founder of personal colour consulting service Find Your Colour Hong Kong, explains the fundamentals for selecting and styling jewelry pieces that complement your features and adapting pieces that don’t suit your “season”.
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Colour theory has its roots in the 19th century, focusing on colour mixing, contrast, and harmony in the visual arts. American fashion designer and stylist Suzanne Caygill expanded on this concept and created her own seasonal colour theory in the 1980s, which continues to shape today’s colour systems.
“Your season determines the mood of your style,” states Seo, noting that the aim of this analysis is not to eliminate what should be avoided, but to provide insights on selecting and matching colors and accessories to achieve a cohesive, rather than overwhelming, look.
The four seasons can be categorized into variations such as light, soft, clear, deep or true. Three key elements contribute to the distinct hues that make up each subtype: hue (with undertones of warm, cool or neutral), brightness (ranging from light to medium to dark colours) and saturation (either rich or muted varieties).
For example, spring types look most attractive in warm and vivid colours; summer types suit cool, calming shades; autumn types should bring out rich colours with depth and warmth, while winter types can pull off bold colours that are intense and cool.
“One thing many individuals often overlook is the level of contrast in the colours they wear,” Seo says. High contrast involves combining black and white, or pairing deep colours with pale hues, as well as incorporating true shades and larger elements into the overall styling. On the other hand, low contrast means choosing similar shades throughout a given look, along with delicate patterns and smaller details.
Jewelry can greatly impact how visual contrast is perceived – it’s almost like having a special skill,” says Seo. “For instance, if the season’s color palette is meant to be bold and contrasting, but the heat forces you to wear less clothing, adding statement earrings or a necklace can help achieve the desired look instead.
It also works well if you prefer softer and more subtle styles, but you want to break up the boldness of a single colour combination. “You can layer multiple thin necklaces with small charms and delicate decorations, as this will immediately soften the look along your neckline.”
When selecting jewellery for the seasons, Seo recommends embracing the visual elements of the seasons. “To capture the essence of spring, consider emerald and sapphire-toned stones, as well as nature-inspired forms and dainty charms, which can symbolize the season’s vibrancy.”
Korean actress Song Hye-kyo embodies this style well, notably in the floral and water droplet cut gemstones in the pieces she often wears from her partnership with Chaumet, which started in 2019 as a brand ambassador.
Perls are great as they have a subtle and muted luster, but rather than circular forms and patterns, linear designs such as drop earrings work well. Avoid yellow gold as it is too warm and overpowering for this season.
When it comes to autumn, the most advisable approach is to layer all types of jewelry. “Autumn types can cope with the richness and texture of their clothing, so jewelry designs can be more intricate and feature detailed elements,” Seo says.
Appears stunning in soft autumn hues, complementing a monochromatic look with layers of gold accessories such as necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, similar to those in the Tiffany & Co. Lock collection, which she has been a spokesperson for since 2023.
“Bolder designs and distinct contrasts make winter types stand out,” Seo says. “Diamonds and precious stones in pieces such as statement necklaces won’t overpower the wearer.” Priyanka Chopra is an example of a winter type who highlights her high contrast through striking, eye-catching pieces, including the Bulgari diamond choker with multicoloured gemstones she wore in May 2023.
The jewellery is a versatile styling tool that allows you to regulate the level and depth of contrast in your daily outfits. There are various ways to make even your existing pieces, which may no longer be in style, work to your advantage.
If you’re a spring who appreciates silver, consider opting for rounded shapes rather than geometric patterns. Those who prefer gold in the summer might find a silver accessory near their face enhances their cool undertones. If you’re an autumn who doesn’t like the appearance of gold, you might find rose or champagne gold metals more appealing. Winters who prefer understated designs can add some flair with a simple outfit.
You can incorporate styles that deviate from your natural colour season by adding decorative elements and makeup techniques. “If you normally favor understated jewelry, wanting a glamorous look can be achieved by pairing bold makeup with deeper shades and voluminous hairstyles, which will harmonize with your styling objectives.”
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This article originally appeared in the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), a leading news outlet providing comprehensive coverage of China and Asia.
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