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The Faroe Islands is a remote island chain situated halfway between Great Britain and Iceland.
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Laura Sharman explores rugged sea cliffs, deserted hamlets and mountainous paths.
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In the Faroe Islands, a North Atlantic archipelago, a unique mode of transportation is gaining popularity. Locals opt for helicopter rides, which offer breathtaking views of the islands. For just £25 one-way, passengers can soar above the 18 islands for a few exhilarating minutes, before landing at their desired destination.
Venturing into this region might appear like an unconventional idea, but its unconventional nature is precisely what characterizes the area. It has the sensation of standing at the edge of the world, situated between Scotland and Iceland, where rugged cliffs jut out of the ocean like the hands of sorceresses and locals are outnumbered by a more abundant population of sheep.
The Faroe Islands have enjoyed autonomy within Denmark since 1948.
The primary industry is fishing, which is also associated with a controversial method known as the grindadráp, a type of whale hunting. Furthermore, the area is renowned for its notable populations of puffins and oystercatchers.
or Copenhagen.
As I arrived at Vagar Airport with my partner Thomas, we embarked on a journey to Torshavn, which has a significant population of approximately 52,800 people, roughly half the total population of the region, which amounts to 53,444.
We pass from one island to another via an underwater tunnel under the sea, and then are let out into a narrow, serpentine channel, where cows feed on the lush, moss-covered hillsides and tiny, isolated cabins cling to the outer edges.
It’s as if dawn has broken, but the clock clearly shows it’s actually late at night. We’re left stunned until we see the hotel, its grass-covered roof overlooking Torshavn harbour in the distance.
The weather conditions look promising for your journey tomorrow,” the receptionist recommends. “You’re planning to travel to the Northern Isles; they are certainly breathtaking.
We arrive on the island of Bordoy the following day at 9am via another sea tunnel.
Located at the end is the world’s only sub-sea rotating traffic circle, nicknamed ‘the Jellyfish’ due to its moving blue lights and dome-shaped canopy.
As we enter the charming town of Klaksvik, we begin gearing up for the ascent up Klakkur mountain, which awaits us with a 412-meter climb. This 1.5-hour hike unfolds breathtaking vistas, and as we reach the summit, we’re almost swept away by strong gusts of wind.
Located at the northernmost point of Bordoy, the medieval settlement of Muli remains uninhabited today. Despite its small size, it was a ghost town long before its residents vanished, having never exceeded a population of 25 people during its most populous period. In the 17th century, Muli was said to have been home to a supposed sorcerer who was sought after by individuals from across the archipelago for his mystical abilities.
Locals during that time relied on sheep herding and fishing, being inaccessible by land, except for a nine-mile trek or boat journey to the nearest town. This changed with the construction of a connecting road by the government, intended to prevent emigration, yet paradoxically, it resulted in the majority of residents departing in 1992 once it was available.
We leave Muli and set out on another hike with breathtaking views of the fjord, stretching to Cape Enniberg, a mountain renowned for its record- breaking 750 meters vertical sea cliff. Some visitors aren’t even deterred by the village’s isolation, and instead choose to admire the seemingly timeless scene where fading embers of former life remain, including vases still in place on windowsills, stacked dining chairs, and forgotten toys.
“We were told there was no major upheaval that led to the exodus, just a general sense of growing discontent among the locals,” our server says over dinner in Torshavn. The following day, we revisit Vagar island and complete the 1.6-kilometer path to Slave Cliff, which supposedly got its name from the Viking Age era when unwell slaves were W thrown off the precipice.
The entire lake of Sorvagsvatn creates an illusion by appearing to be perched directly on top of the ocean.
Upon our return, we drive a short distance and head to Miovagur village in search of dinner, where we chance upon Solvi, a stranger who graciously invites us into his cozy cottage.
The guest is partaking in ‘heimablidni’, a traditional Faroese custom of having guests who gather in people’s homes.
“As for me, socializing at home is our standard,” he says, presenting us with a home-cooked dish featuring cod casserole, roasted potatoes, a tart rhubarb preserve, and local Black Sheep draught beer.
‘Large numbers of people travel from all corners of the globe to see the waterfall near my residence,’ Solvi remarks. ‘They consistently praise its beauty, yet for us, it’s just a signal that it rained recently.’
We can now truly appreciate the beauty of our country as seen through the perspectives of visitors from other lands.
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