The English may laugh and the French may shrug, but Anglo-French cooperation has been around for centuries–just not very frequently.
At what point did Julius Caesar decide to invade Gaul?
Allowed, events took a different turn for the next two thousand years, but you must surely recall the landmark moment beneath the English Channel. The handshakes, the celebrations, the champagne toasts?
An amazing display of engineering and a fitting reminder that although pounds may not become euros, old debts can be settled.
The Entente Cordiale has been constantly influenced by societal factors that have driven France and England together, yet driven them apart. However, the latest example has its roots in factors beyond the realm of governmental and social control: Climate Change.
vines are planted).
Terroir
This region is about as far north as you can get while still being considered suitable for winemaking, which generally requires conditions between 30 and 50 degrees latitude in both hemispheres. Reims, the capital of this region, is situated at approximately 49.15 degrees north. Interestingly, the cold climate in this area actually benefits the production of sparkling wine as high acidity in the grapes is necessary for the traditional method of production.
Secondly, the soil in that part of France is composed of a very high amount of chalk content, which preserves its freshness and minerality, characteristics that are, once again, ideal for the production of sparkling wine. In fact, the top-tier of Champagne – the Grand Crus – are almost entirely produced on sites with the highest chalk content.
Chalk is ingenious. It’s excellent for allowing water to drain through, and yet it can also retain moisture in times of drought.
Combining all these factors, you have the ideal environment for cultivating Champagne. However, introducing climate change into the equation creates an issue. Grapes are ripening more rapidly, even in relatively cooler vintages; the south-facing vineyards in the Côte des Blancs are experiencing warmer conditions; and weather patterns are becoming less predictable. This prompts the question:
What strategies can top-performing industries use to remain cutting-edge and resilient in the face of future challenges?
Wines from the same variety are produced in Kent and the South Eastern part of England.
Continuously improving its abilities
English sparkling wine is reported to be enjoying a revival, but a more accurate term would be rebirth. The sector has undergone a significant transformation over the last decade, with enhanced production and economies of scale, bringing the price point to a level that is competitive, while the standard of quality has undoubtedly improved.
But what of terroir?
Interestingly, the soils in many parts of Kent, Sussex, and Surrey have a correspondingly high chalk content similar to those of the renowned growing regions of Champagne, due in part to the fact that this area forms part of the same Paris Basin, where thick chalk layers rich in plankton fossils developed between 60 and 100 million years ago.
Not only that, but the climate in southeastern England is similar to what it was like in the Champagne region 50 years ago. In contrast, the one-degree temperature increase in northeastern France has resulted in a disproportionate number of dried-out grapes due to excessive heat damage.
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Taittinger investment
The roots of a long-standing relationship between the famous Champagne house Taittinger and southern England can be traced back to a historic bond of cooperation between Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger and British Master of Wine Patrick McGrath, who have been friends for a number of years. Taittinger’s father, Jean, was the mayor of Reims, the capital of the Champagne region, and he established a twinning arrangement between Reims and Canterbury as far back as 1962 – and it was not far from Canterbury, near the city’s cathedral, that the impervious chalky soil was discovered, boasting gentle south-facing slopes and an advantageous elevation.
Several companies have been importing Taittinger into the United Kingdom for decades.
Mansfield and Taittinger have undoubtedly collaborated for an extended period,” says India McGrath, Brand Manager of Domaine Evremond. “They will serve as our agent distributors, which is a rare arrangement, as most English wine brands wouldn’t require a distributor because they wouldn’t be importing any wine. Instead, wines would typically be sold directly from the winery. However, we will be entrusting ours to Hatch Mansfield, who will utilize their existing distribution networks into the on-trade sector.
Although the primary focus is on the UK market, utilizing an already established distribution network is highly beneficial for international sales and Taittinger has representatives all over the world. This is also, perhaps, the reason why the estate has the confidence to produce such a large quantity of wine. McGrath says the goal is to manufacture approximately 400,000 bottles.
The Estate
Domaine Evremond is situated in the countryside, just near the charming 15th-century village of Chilham, close to Canterbury. It is located at 52.1 degrees north latitude, just beyond the traditional boundaries of the historic wine-producing region. However, climate change is disrupting long-standing norms and creating new possibilities. Although the French might be surprised to consider purchasing English sparkling wine, they have the expertise to produce it and to adapt to changing conditions in their native region.
This 300-acre estate, with nearly half of it dedicated to vineyards, bears the name and symbol of the intriguing 17th century figure Charles St Evremond. Although the poet, literary critic, and soldier was not welcomed in his native France following his candid opinions on the country’s foreign policy after the Franco-Spanish war, he fled to England, where he was warmly received. Notably, Charles II was so taken with St Evremond’s winemaking skills that the monarch decided to offer him a pension.
He can be located in Poets’ Corner in Westminster Abbey, where he stands as the sole French representative, and under his marble bust rests his emblem, which is the five-petaled cinquefoil flower. This symbol is currently featured on the estate’s leading wine, the Classic Cuvée.
Not yet available until March 2025, the cuvée has been aged for three years on the lees, giving it a rich flavor with notes of brioche, typical of sparkling wines. This blend is made from a combination of the three traditional grapes used in Champagne production: Pinot Noir (55%), Chardonnay (35%), and Pinot Meunier (10%). It will be priced at £50 (approximately €67) when it’s launched, which is a relatively high price point.
Grape Expectations?
There is an acknowledged sense of pressure.
We’re now a decade-old company and we haven’t released a wine yet,” she says. “Hence, there’s a great deal of expectation – from both British consumers and the local wine community here in Kent – regarding the quality of our inaugural wine, our one and only cuvée, as it took ten years to create.
Evremond had all major trade contacts at its flagship launch, followed by a welcome gathering for fine wine merchants. In January, they will hold a pre-release tasting for influential sommeliers. However, the public will have to wait until 2025 to experience it. Consequently, I cannot comment on or evaluate the wine itself. Despite this, all the necessary elements are in place to make a significant impression, including the same winemaking team from Taittinger overseeing the project.
Having a pre-established distribution network has the benefit of saving time. Given that the majority of sales-related issues have already been addressed, India and her team have reduced opportunities for distractions from other critical projects.
conscious,” says McGrath.
The surroundings are expansive and the scenery is breathtaking, so visitors will undoubtedly want to linger after a tasting or a tour.
Various Anglo-French factors contribute to the project’s overall development. Mark Gaskin, who initially owned the orchards on which the company planted its first 20 hectares, continues to work his old lands, but he does so in collaboration with Christelle Rinville, an experienced viticulturist. Her extensive background as Taittinger’s Vineyard manager, combined with Gaskin’s unique understanding of the local terroir, create a strong partnership.
In the UK, a program has been inspired to reintroduce them and provide an environment where they can thrive in their natural habitat.
There’s been incredible work on turtle dove conservation, and we’re actually having beehives installed,” says McGrath, expressing his pride. “Furthermore, we have a massive number of wildflower meadows, which the government rewards us for. We’ve replanted all the hedgerows that were removed, as well as numerous trees. Consequently, a great deal of effort has been invested.
Open chequebook?
What is the nature of this investment?
We started out with an investment of about 17 million,” McGrath confirms. “We were fortunate to acquire the original land at a relatively low price. However, the more recent purchases have been four times as expensive. As a result, the total cost of the winery is still uncertain. Estimates put it between 17 and 18 million, but everyone acknowledges it will be significantly higher than that.
Sparkling wine, primarily focused on domestic sales, has made notable inroads into international markets. Nyetimber, for instance, is already available in at least 24 countries, and its recent appearance in Shanghai will further expand its global presence.
Domaine Evremond will require time to establish itself and refine its marketing approach for its single cuvée, but with the investment, Taittinger’s expertise, the established distribution network, and the valuable chalk soil, it is well-equipped to make a strong impression.
